Author: Hannah Lane Major: Apparel Merchandising and Product Development
During the Summer and Fall semesters of 2019, I performed research in the Apparel Merchandising and Product Development department, under the guidance and supervision of my mentor, Dr. Laurie Apple. The purpose of my research and strategy of execution is to develop a professional dress shirt for women who are post double-mastectomy and have chosen not to undergo reconstruction. A Mastectomy is a surgical procedure that results in removing all or part of a woman’s breast tissue in order to affectively treat breast cancer. In order to create these garments, Dr. Apple and myself used a previously developed one-dart bust block; although the bust sloper was developed by a former AFLS graduate student, it had never been executed until our usage.
My research on this topic began early in the Spring 2019 semester, however I began the physical process of constructing the garment in the early weeks of the summer semester. I spent many hours in the sewing lab constructing our first prototype of an asymmetrical, button-down garment, complete with a singular ruffle on the button closure, ruffled cuffs, and a fold-over collar; the entire prototype garment was constructed out of 100% muslin. This garment was also submitted as a Creative Design to the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA), for the opportunity to attend the ITAA conference in October 2019 in Las Vegas, Nevada. Unfortunately, we were not selected to present at the conference at this time.
The construction process of the prototype was a long and strenuous one; very rarely did I get it right on the first attempt, and even less often without the guidance of Dr. Apple. The drafting process did not present many problems, however during construction we were challenged with fit issues mainly in the sleeves and bodice. The initial draft of the sleeves was altogether too large, and this resulted in the inset-sleeve being extremely wide and too long. In an attempt to correct this, the sleeve was then gathered at the shoulder, the width taken in approximately 3 inches, and length taken up approximately 4 inches. For the bodice, the drafts are based on measurements given to us by a volunteer who is post double mastectomy without reconstruction. We constructed the bodice of the prototype according to her measurements; however, I concluded that the fit of the bodice was too tight in the abdomen and chest area and that more fabric will need to be added in the final construction. The original pattern drafts will also have to be modified in order to reflect these changes. I was able to gather this information by traveling to Little Rock to meet face-to-face with our participant. I conducted a fit iteration with the participant at her office on an evening before the start of fall break; Dr. Apple was in attendance via FaceTime.
Because of my fast approaching graduation date (Fall 2019), Dr. Apple and I did not get the opportunity to take this project as far as we initially wanted. The original plans were to draft patterns and construct two different professional blouses, but due to time restraints we had to cut it down to one garment. However, our living flat participant was extremely satisfied with the aesthetic appeal of the single garment; she thought the design details were unique but still functional enough for day-to-day tasks. I also concluded that the one dart bust block is a phenomenal resource for producing tops for post double mastectomy women without reconstruction. This tool allowed for the chest area of the garment to comfortably lay flat, while other design details effectively distract the eye and draw attention to elsewhere on the body.
Though it may seem like there were more negative experiences than positive ones, this was not the case. Our final prototype garment turned out beautifully, and Dr. Apple and I genuinely enjoyed the entire creative process. Furthermore, my time spent in the sewing lab was also a great refresher course for me on general construction information that I had learned semesters earlier but hadn’t executed in a lengthy amount of time. During this process, what I’ve learned about myself is that I truly enjoy sewing and designing garments, especially when they have a significant purpose. With that being said, I probably will not become a designer as my career, but I have realized that I enjoy having creative freedom and working with my hands.
Dr. Apple’s role during this process has been that of my right-hand man. She gave me the responsibility of designing and constructing the garment and making all the decisions but always assisted me if any questions came up. She always made herself available to me whenever I needed to work in the lab and worked around my tight schedule. Through this partnership, I have developed a passion for this project that Dr. Apple herself has.
At this point in time, I have successfully defended my thesis and am on track to graduate at the end of this semester. Academically, I plan to take a break for a few years and potentially apply to graduate school further down the line. Although I do not have a job lined up after graduation, I am excited to enter into the work force and start a new chapter of my life. I will be moving back home to the Dallas, Texas area and actively seek out a professional role.