In Yukata on the Philosopher’s Walk
Author: Amanda Thomsen | Major: Economics and Mathematics | Semester: January Intersession 2023
This winter, I spent 3 weeks studying manga and anime in Japan through the CIEE J-Term in Kyoto program. My goals were to be able to learn about the history, culture, and attitudes in Japan through its art history and media exports, all within the context of the culturally rich former capital. While I was not the biggest follower of manga and anime culture before this trip, I’ve certainly unlocked a new inner fan and developed a deep appreciation for Japan’s rich and unique cultural history.
I chose this program because I wanted to explore a country in which I had not previously studied the native language but wanted the structure of an external program to rely on in case such a language barrier caused any issues. Of the options, Kyoto stood out because of the number of historical temples and shrines that were spared during World War II. I had enjoyed watching several Studio Ghibli and Spy x Family, so I thought I would have fun in a course that further explored these mediums.
Our course was a deep dive into manga and anime. We covered everything from the history of art in Japan, the technical aspects of creating an anime, the subgenres of both mediums, otaku culture, and the use of media to reflect political and societal motives. This class was different from those at the U of A because 1) it was a unique topic I have yet to see in a home course and 2) it was fairly assignment heavy. I had gotten accustomed to the 2 exams and a final or 3 papers per semester routine, but this course required us to submit several vlog, essay, and presentation assignments. We even made our own manga for this course! Overall, I loved my professor – she was very passionate about manga and anime, both as a fan but as an academic. My only complaint would be that the reading was a little over assigned and the quizzes were not well constructed to reflect material in the reading. That said, our professor was very understanding and worked with us to make sure we got the most out of our course. I’ve developed a more holistic respect for manga and anime as genres and feel like I notice more when I watch anime now.
We were lucky to be in Kyoto during the Japanese New Year. New Years is a big deal in Japan, with most people going to Buddhist temples or Shinto shrines to (literally) ring in the new year. I was able to participate in these festivities by getting fitted in an antique yukata, eating soba noodles on New Year’s Eve, getting an omamori (lucky amulets), and completing hatsumode (the first shrine visit of the year) at Yasaka shrine. The temples and shrines are hundreds of years old and beautiful. For anyone who loves hiking, many great hikes in the surrounding mountains lead up to shrines and familial graves. If you somehow exhaust the sites in Kyoto, the shinkansen (bullet train) turns 8-hour car trips into 3-hour train rides.
As far as assimilating into culture, there were some highlights and some barriers. First, Japanese customer service is probably the best in the world. If you approach someone, they will try to help you. The city is exceptionally clean, and I always felt safe in venturing out on my own (even at night). That said, it’s easy to feel like an outsider. Japan has a highly collectivist culture – so while it’s easy to feel like you don’t belong, it is helpful to just take a look around at what other people are doing if you’re not sure what’s culturally acceptable. Additionally, English proficiency is low – that said, the universal language of pointing at the menu and gesturing at various items tends will get you through the trip. Ditch the Duolingo and just make some flashcards with essential travel phrases if you don’t have any prior Japanese experience.
Overall, I would recommend this program to other students. Kyoto is beautiful and you’ll have a unique experience, particularly if you’re here during the J-term for the New Year. I have some critiques for the organization and class structure from CIEE, but I loved my professor and overall had a good time in class as well. My recommendation to anyone hoping to come on this program are to 1) pack good hiking shoes, 2) get your train card on Apple Wallet for easy card refills (don’t use your yen!) and 3) to look up some key phrases in Japanese. The first thing I’m doing when I get home is eating an entire a Hawaiian pizza!