Rejuvenating Memories of the Desert

Author: Abdullah Asif | Major(s): Biochemistry, Arabic, Middle Eastern Studies Country

Semester Summer 2024 (Jordan)

Getting surgery in Jordan

This summer marked my first venture outside of the United States, and it was an unforgettable experience. I left Arkansas for a three-week premed program in Sweden, and as
soon as it concluded, I embarked on my next adventure and flew to Amman, Jordan, to begin my Arabic studies. I applied to the SIT Intensive Arabic Language Program because I wanted to learn Arabic in an Arabic-speaking country. While I gained valuable insights into healthcare systems and policies during my time in Sweden, I felt that much of this information could have been learned online, regardless of whether I was in the country or not. However, learning a language is a skill that can be exponentially improved through cultural immersion in an environment where it is the primary language spoken. Moreover, I had always wanted to travel to the Middle East for more personal reasons. As a Muslim living as a minority in my country, the idea of being in a Muslim-majority country where my faith is an integral part of the cultural fabric intrigued me. Additionally, having experienced Arab hospitality firsthand and hearing my Jordanian friends speak so highly of their homeland, I was eager to visit.

The Middle East also stands out as one of the most culturally distinct regions compared to the United States, offering a level of unfamiliarity and uniqueness that European countries like Sweden can’t quite provide. I desired to immerse myself in something entirely different – an experience that would be impossible to have back home.
My initial impressions of Jordan immediately confirmed that I was in a completely different part of the world, both geographically and culturally.

With 80% of the country being desert, I vividly remember watching endless dunes stretch as far as the eye could see from my plane as I landed. Taking my first quick walk outside revealed much about the culture and political climate. The modest dress and the public call to prayer five times a day (even at 4:00 AM!) reflected the strong Islamic values that permeate the country. There was a noticeable homogeneity to the buildings, with everything constructed from pale limestone – likely chosen for its reflective properties in the intense sun and its abundance as one of Amman’s few natural resources.

Security was pervasive in Jordan’s hotels, malls, and government buildings due to regional volatility and to ensure the safety of Jordan’s many tourists, visitors, and residents. I also experienced Jordan’s renowned hospitality, which I found to be even more strongly directed towards foreigners. Many restaurants, markets, and taxis would invite me in and offer unique deals, and sometimes completely free services (although some will try to take advantage and scam you!), as they were eager to showcase the best aspects of their culture and values.

The first week of the program served as an orientation to help us students acclimate to our new lives in Jordan. We explored various cultural aspects such as modesty, hospitality, social norms, and religious attitudes, alongside practical information like using taxis, currency exchange, water safety, and business hours. What fascinated me the most was our discussion about Jordan’s position in the region. Our teachers described Jordan as the “heart” of the Middle East due to its central location and role as a crossroads of various cultures and civilizations. Out
of a population of 11 million, 7 million are Jordanians, while 4 million are refugees from countries like Syria, Iraq, Yemen, and Egypt. Additionally, half of the 7 million Jordanians are actually ethnically Palestinian, having fled or been expelled during the 1948 Arab-Israeli War or the 1967 Six-Day War. This incredible diversity makes Jordan unique in the Arab world.

The week after orientation, we were assigned to different host families, and our classes began immediately. Classes ran from 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM with a 1.5-hour lunch break and smaller breaks between sessions. Our teachers were masters at teaching us grammar and new rules, enabling us to learn quickly. Additionally, the classes were not limited to lectures and always incorporated activities related to Jordnian culture such as decorating the classroom in preparation for Eid; learning Dabke, a traditional Levantine dance; dressing up in traditional Arab clothing; and learning how to make traditional Arab food (followed by a feast of course!)

While our classes were excellent, I quickly became accustomed to most of my Arabic practice happening outside the classroom – in the streets, markets, and especially in taxis. Amman is not a walkable city, so taxis are the main mode of transportation. I took around four taxis a day, averaging about an hour each day. These taxi rides became the most fruitful opportunities for practicing my conversations without the fear of being intimidated or judged.

Within just the first two weeks, I grew very close to my fellow students, forming bonds that quickly developed into strong friendships. We became a tight-knit group, doing everything together. I can’t overstate how much their presence contributed to my experience abroad. Every day in Jordan was exciting because I woke up each morning looking forward to continue exploring with them. They matched my energy and enthusiasm, eager to make the most of our time in Jordan and see as much of the country as possible.

Perhaps the most pivotal moment in the program was when I decided to undergo major surgery to reconstruct my ACL and re-attach my meniscus. It was a weighty decision to proceed with such an invasive operation in a foreign country but after some lengthy consideration with my family, teachers, and friends, I decided to go through with it. My family and teachers were incrediblly supportive throughout this process but it was really my wonderful friends whom I have so much to thank for. During the following two weeks when I was completely confined to my bed, they would constantly visit me at my home, help me set up online classes with my teachers, and always offer to help with anything I might need. Throughout the rest of the prorgam where I was able to walk on crutches, their kindness continued to be simply unmatched. They would bring me food and water throughout the day so I didn’t have to walk myself, offered to come home with me in taxis, suggested activities in which they knew I’d be
included, and were overly considerate about avoiding the mention of any experiences for which I was absent for to spare me feeling left out.

In addition to immersing myself in the language and culture, the SIT program offered incredible excursions to the most nearly every major site in Jordan. During my stay, I visited the Amman Citadel, the Dead Sea, the port city of Aqaba, and Madaba, the city of mosaics. Unfortunately, due to my surgery, I had to miss some of the more challenging yet significant excursions, such as Petra, the ancient trade capital of the Nabataean kingdom; Wadi Rum, the breathtaking red desert known for its clear celestial views; and Jerash, the largest Roman city outside of Italy. However, I am determined to return in the future where I’ll be able to complete my journey and continue exploring this country’s history and rich cultural heritage.

Reflecting on my time in Amman, I can’t help but feel a deep sense of nostalgia for those days just two weeks ago. The city’s vibrant blend of history and novelty, combined with the genuine warmth of its people, created an unforgettable atmosphere. The crowded markets, full of colorful textiles and artisanal crafts; the breathtaking pink sunsets from the mountainous city overlooks; and the bustling streets at night, full of ambient cafes and restaurants, all became part of my daily rhythm – one that I yearn to experience again. The Arabic language cannot be learned in just two months so I know I must return to continue my studies and my journey of discovering this beautiful country. Until then, I’ll hold on to the countless photos I took and the beautiful, lasting friendships I formed, keeping the memories alive until I return.
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